29 on 29

22 May

Hello (again belated)! I apologize, yet again, for my inability to be responsible with this blog at the moment.  I will correct this behavior starting this week, I promise.  The good news is that the family that normally gets worried about our posting deadlines knows that we have been here in Cali, largely because G was with us only a few weeks ago!

G joined us in Colombia, which had been dangerously close to being on the list of countries she hadn’t been able to visit while we are on this trip.  Good news is since we have been spending the majority of our trip thus far in this country, she had ample opportunity to correct this slight blemish on her travel dedication record.

G arrived after a seriously long plane ride (purchased nearly entirely using airline miles… so amazing!) and she immediately informed me that she was up for whatever we wanted to do, since I had required her to have no plans except celebrating my 29th birthday on the 29th of April with me.  This was fantastic news, as conveniently H and I had just spent the previous evening at a dance party at my boyfriend‘s house, and were operating on very little sleep (and still in our salsa dresses when we arrived at the airport to collect G).  We rested and ate pizza.

We also introduced our sister (and her fantastic treats that she had brought all the way from the States with her… cheese, epic chocolates, jalapeno cheetos, and fake meat!!!) to our fantastic roommates and decided to take a trip to the nearby hostel pool that we had been unable to locate before.

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It was very pleasant.  We spent the late afternoon, just us five girls with a pool, fries, & tropical smoothies.

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But since we only had a week to work with, we packed up our bags and headed to the Caribbean coast.  Flights with VivaColombia had been silly cheap so we paid only 160,000 pesos a piece round trip, both less time and less money than the busing option.  We arrived in Santa Marta, and returned to the hostel where we tended the bar in October.  We found that things have gotten more expensive across the entire Caribbean since we were there only 6 months ago… our hostel went from 17,000 a night to 25,000! Colombia is becoming less and less of a backpackers’ location, even in the short time that we have been here!

But it is still worth it all, even according to our stowaway, Ernesto!  F had craftily sent the fun-loving Ernesto in G’s carry-on when they met up at LAX for her layover.  You see, Ernesto has been sneaking into my luggage (and then back into F’s possession) since my first trip abroad.  And he was the perfect stand-in for celebrating my golden birthday!

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So not only did he join us in relaxing by the pool, but on our unexpected long hike into Parque Tayrona via Pueblito,

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and then later to chilling on the beach at sunset,

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and generally enjoying the scenery that Tayrona has to offer.

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Since this was our second trip to our favorite park, we knew all the secret inexpensive camping spots, amazing chocolate bread, the most beautiful beaches, and the slightly dangerous bouldering path down into the park from Pueblito.  What I didn’t know was how long all of this was going to take… because in general we have an abundance of time and no real concept of it passing.  So… the hiking in and out was a bit more than expected.

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But I am going to speak for all of us and say it was absolutely worth it!  Hands down, Parque Tayrona is the best place I have visited in Colombia!  Even if I was having such a severe skin reaction (to something, but we still have no idea) that I was covered in fairly horrific red welts from my hairline to my toes.  We left the park earlier than I had planned to deal with this rather awkward monster-looking situation only to find that the doctors were closed because it was a national holiday.

So we moved on to Cartagena, possibly the most romantic city I have ever come across.  We survived the sweltering heat and rambled through the colonial city and along the walls, taking breaks in the shade to enjoy the breeze.

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We swam, explored, and visited friends from our first visit here in September.  My skin cleared up, and all the locals we asked were quite sure I had eaten some bad shellfish, even though I assured them I am vegetarian.  So maybe the horror was all just a bad allergic reaction…

Then all too soon we had a flight back to Cali where we had to take G out for adventures with salsa, running around a local water park with slides and a wave pool, and enjoying the flowers.

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I am older, possibly wiser, and definitely getting to the point in our trip when I am seriously considering what it is we are doing, what I want and don’t want in my life, and how much I absolutely love to bake!  We all miss our family and friend time, and we are actually setting a date to have everyone come meet up with us in Peru now.  So please know that we do think of you all, even if I am not blogging; that I do want to have direction and a plan; and that I would love to see anyone who can take time to come down to visit when we have dates (looking towards October-ish time).

Even locals get lost sometimes

10 May

I have been unforgivably horrible about blogging.  If you care to gander at the calendar to the right of our blog, it will clearly show that for the last month I have been remiss about the weekly blog post promise.  I would love to say it is because we have been insanely busy, but it turns out when I am busy I am a better blogger.

What’s really happening here is that my blogging muse has left me alone out here in Cali, Colombia.  Which is another way to say that I am spending more of my time watching my favorite tango dancers when we have internet than typing out a few lines to tell you all what we are up to.  (Also, I have recently joined Pinterest… I believe this is enough said.)  This is just inexcusable laziness (but aren’t those videos amazing!!).

You may have also noticed that there is a new milestone countdown on the right column of the blog – the day we must move on from Colombia since our 90 day visa is expiring.  I know, we didn’t think we were going to be here this long either…  But H and I are both wrapping our minds around the inevitable move to travel and the coast (and surfing!) in Ecuador in less than one month.  Then we have about 45 days to make it down the coast, through the south of Ecuador and into Peru.  Feel free to start looking at booking flights there my people (family and Jami (and anyone else who would be interested!)).

I will leave this post with a quick anecdote from our recent weeks.  I do owe you an entire birthday blog about when G was here and all the epic 29 on 29 things we did, but I have been melancholy since G’s recent departure and putting off reliving the fun and laughter as there is significantly less of it at the moment.  I plan on posing within a week about it.

A few weeks ago we tried to go to a BBQ at a hostel.  Boyfriend had invited us to a little pool time and veggie cookout at a hostel supposedly right near where we were living in San Antonio.  However, both H and I knew at least 2 different people who had attempted to arrive at this destination before on foot and by taxi, both being unsuccessful in the end.  It was not going to be easy to get there…

But boyfriend was sure that if he simply had the address and a general idea of the direction of the neighborhood, we would be successful.  I mean, this is the city he grew up in right?  Turns out, even locals get lost sometimes…

We looked up google maps, did some discussion with our tall English roommate who had been there before and then set off in a cab.  We got lost.  I mean, up a hill on a dead-end, asking nearly every local we see for help, people sending us up opposite streets in all directions, lost.  So we took a picture.

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Or two.

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Or three. :)

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And then got back in the cab to continue our search for this elusive hostel.  We were not successful.  But we did end up eating some fancy toasted arepas a block away from our house when we gave up the search.  And some fancy photos from our random good views over Cali.  And we even were able to explore some new areas (that we are unlikely to need to venture to again, but were very nice).

Overall, a win night I believe (but if you ask boyfriend, he is still embarrassed to have gotten lost in his hometown ;) ).

Let me leave you with one last tango my friends…

What is it that we do here in Cali?

24 Apr

I recently realized that while we have settled into our lives up here in Cali, some of you may be wondering what it is we are doing with our time (right, M?). Well, honestly even I’m not entirely sure…

There is undoubtedly a lot of dancing in our lives, quite a lot of Spanish speaking (I will even call older native Spanish speakers on my own initiative to get shoes made now!), and some English studies. But some of the best parts of our days here is chatting with all of the random friends we have within our house, around San Antonio, and at all of our favorite salsa clubs.

We walk by our friends on the street and convince them to come grab ice cream with us, we go into the local vegetarian-friendly restaurants and see it full of people we know, and our local dance clubs take us at least a half hour to walk up to every person we know and kiss them on the cheek both when we arrive and when we leave. We have a little life here for a moment while we breathe and wait for me to get older at the end of the month.

But I feel sure that I have mentioned all this before. So instead this week I plan on telling you the little trips and adventures that we have enjoyed on particular days. Starting with our house-girls’ trip to the river Pichinde!

Our tall, model-esque English roommate had adventured up to this river before, and knew that the local jeep transport was simply at the edge of the large hill we live on. So we packed up our river/beach ready selves and sauntered over in the broiling heat of Cali.

It hadn’t been raining for about a week, and the heat each day felt as though someone had cranked up the temperature another notch. We settled into the shade and began the semi-frustrating task of flagging down jeeps and asking them to take us to the river. Many did not. But after only about 20 minutes of shouting the strange name at passing transport our chariot arrived!

However, it was full. This meant that both H and our English roommate hung on to the back while our Santa Cruz yoga teaching roommate and I settled onto the bench inside.
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The two outside had an awesome view on the way up the hill through the forest, and struck up conversations with the men hanging on with them. One such conversation lead to the discovery that there is a waterfall at this river, only a short 40 minute walk from the road.

Of course we went with him. We were four ladies on our outside adventure, and a kind local wanted to show us his secret waterfall! We jumped off our jeep at a random street lamp and paid the 2,500 COP jeep fare. Then we struck off on a small path into the forest and chatted our way down to the river through some brambles for about 20 minutes.
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Then we slipped and slid our way upstream in icy water, and only our ever-prepared Santa Cruz friend had thought to bring non-lightweight slippers to change into. Our local guide was gentlemanly enough to carry our bags, run up the river in his jeans and sneakers, and then come back to fetch us as we struggled on the sharp and slippery rocks in our bare feet.

But we arrived, and it was magical.
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We swam, sat, and enjoyed the nature. Our guide had named the waterfall Caida del Tulcan because on his first time here he saw a tucan battle to escape a hawk.

We then gathered ourselves back together and hiked another hour upstream to reach the main road (he mentioned offhand that the walk takes him only about 10 minutes). We came up with a fairly useful system of making a human chain across the stronger rapids and were able to struggle a little less while we passed one another upstream.

We stopped for a break at a local berry bush and enjoyed the tart-and-sweet fuchsia berries while our feet dried out and warmed up a bit. Eventually we found a path he thought would work to get us off the river, and we started our climb up to the road. But it turns out (even though I had specifically asked him before hand if he had taken this path before) we had trekked right onto private property.

Good news is this was the perfect moment for a coffee tour. And then a group photo overlooking our river hike.

We saw some impressive orchids on the way out, and tried sucking nectar out of pretty red flowers. The jeep stop had banana bread that was not only moist and fresh, but tasty and only 1,000 COP!  Rare find indeed.

On the way down we all settled into the back benches of our jeep and had time to truly appreciate our little adventure.  We had found a waterfall right outside Cali that even our local friends didn’t know about!  Good day.

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Late, but not dead. (for two weeks)

18 Apr

Why hello our (currently not so) adoring public!

We are not in fact dead.  I realize that there is no real way to know that fact if we do not post a blog or photos to the blog for (2) weeks.  Yes, I also know that may cause some undue stress in your lives.  And I do apologize.  I don’t even have a decent excuse!

What I do have is a plan to swing by the local tango studio today and not only sign up for dance lessons here in Cali, but also order myself in a pair of custom-made dancing shoes, designed by my own crazy mind.  Because you can do these sorts of liberating and amazing things in Colombia for a reasonable price.  Would you like to browse as well?

The ultimate plan is to learn this dance, which not only takes one item off my bucket list but also gives me something to do while H may or may not be teaching youths about science at a local English-speaking school.  This would only be until June (when the school session ends), but I feel that is plenty of time to get my feet ready for serious tango dancing when I reach BA, Argentina.

Our days consist of swimming at the local pool to get H’s arms ready for our Ecuador surf session coming up (soon?), taking cold showers to break the oppressive heat, having daily new dramas shake up our lives in new and exciting ways, cooking food (mostly a group effort these days), and salsa dancing 5 nights a week (unless it’s raining; Colombians are like cats and do not enjoy going out when it’s wet). We have been doing some other new interesting things as well, which I will blog about again this week (probably).

And I’m having an actual birthday this year. Which it is now officially confirmed that G will be coming to enjoy as well! So darn it, I’m buying some heels!

And learning how to do this

Catching up, future plans, & Semana Santa

3 Apr

I have some catching up to do it seems. Also, this post is late yet again. I realize there is absolutely no reason to be late posting a blog when the only other thing I have to do in my day is study English (which I am honestly not doing either…) and I have unlimited access to the internet and as much privacy as I could want in our new home.

Oh! Much more interestingly, we have a new home!! We moved in on April 1st and plan on staying here until G comes to visit at the end of the month (to celebrate my birthday, which I have actually committed to officially celebrate this year. I can’t seem to stop surprising myself these days). It is a group house in the old neighborhood of San Antonio, and we are settling into our college dorm-like setting fairly easily. There is the unnecessarily loud French guy down the hall who seems to be allergic to cleaning his own dishes, the hilarious and helpful English salsa dancer next to us (and her local boyfriend when he’s around), and the sick and studious German girl who is just starting her dreads upstairs, and a whole group downstairs that includes our salsa friend and new yoga teacher from Santa Cruz. I cannot imagine how we wouldn’t have stories to come soon…

Also, we are planning on enjoying the celebration of my birthday in Cartagena, our favorite spot here in Colombia. So if you have time and the means to get down here, join us on the Caribbean! We are looking forward to romantic sunsets, relaxing on beautiful beaches, swimming in mud, dancing salsa as often as possible, and possibly the best chocolate bread in the world… Who wouldn’t want to join in that fun, right?

But back to the recap I missed! Look at these nice pictures I took for y’all on our anniversary climb of Tres Cruces: 20130403-112529.jpg

This is (possibly) a picture of H climbing to the top of Tres Cruces. You see, it was a bit of a journey that we didn’t have a clearly defined route for and I was hot and lazy. So I choose to hike up a small portion, get a decent view, and sit and read my book (1Q84) while H tucked in and dragged herself to the top and see (all the random exercise equipment?) views from the very top. She is (possibly?) a colorful spot of rainbow on the path to the top…

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That was my perch, under a nice wooden lean-to sitting on a bench away from the heat of the sun. (Mind you, this behavior does not surprise me).

We have also completed a personal record for salsa dancing in the week that has passed. We have now officially spent 11 days dancing every night, from the night of our anniversary (Wednesday, 20 March) to this last Saturday, 31 March. This happily included a little of everything, from going out all dressed up to new clubs with a large group of people, to dancing barefoot on the beach in our swimwear.

The beach? There’s no beach in Cali. True, but we spent Semana Santa with my boyfriend and a few of his friends on the Pacific. We took an entire day to get ourselves on the 3-4 hour bus to Buenaventura, stocked up at the local grocery store (which was completely packed with people stocking up using their last paycheck for the month) for veggies for a week, then onto a 90 minute launcha over the bay to Juanchaco, where we walked through the small town to find a tractor to pull us overland 30 minutes to Ladrilleros, where we began our “30 minute” walk (more like 80 minute) to our more secluded spot on La Barra.

The Pacific was beautiful, as we have always found to be true in other locations as well. We had a huge stretch of beach at low tide and enjoyed the crashing of the waves right beyond our tents at high tide. There was an excursion into a natural pool along the fresh water river in the mangrove forest, and quite a few walks down to enjoy peanut & coconut ice cream treats at the local store (which just so happened to also sell the strongest homemade liquor on the beach. We know this to be true due to thorough taste tests).

But mostly, we enjoyed the company of Colombians, with both our fantastic group of friends and all over the rest of the country. And sunsets, there were very impressive.

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And now I think we’re all caught up!

We are yoga-practicing, English-learning, and dinner-party-throwing our time out here, hopefully joining a local pool tomorrow for daily swims! Life in Cali is actually becoming a life.

Getting Fired

26 Mar

We spent the last week in Cali settling into our lives here, which for us seems to include minimal English-teaching study, intense salsa dancing practice, afternoon naps, and five hours worth of dawn cleaning.  That is, until recently dawn cleaning.  Turns out, we got “fired” from our volunteer job this week.

How does one get fired from volunteer work?  Especially if we were really good sports about the 5am wake-up calls, the possessive and slightly inappropriate physical work environment,  and the strange reward and punishment system (ranging from giving and taking away our keys, feeding us at random moments or not, and the strange balance of messaging obsessively to complete ignoring of our presence).  Well, actually, it’s quite simple: I just didn’t show up for work.

Yes, all of you who have worked with me in the past, I know this goes against everything I have ever complained about in regards to students, co-workers, and professionalism. I was shocked at my behavior as well. However, there is something wonderfully freeing about waking up, looking at the clock and seeing that we were meant to be there at 6:45 am, and instead turning over and going back to sleep.

H did, however, go to work that day, even though we had been staying with my boyfriend for the past few days as there wasn’t even a bed in the hostel for us at that time. She diligently put in the required 5 hours to earn our keep, and warned me that it may not even be worth coming in to deal with it. And no, I did not call or message my absence.  I just slept.

We had an apologetic conversation with the owner afterwards, and we all decided that it made sense for us to just continue staying with my boyfriend and not work going forward. I feel the guilt about my behavior, but it is difficult to regret the outcome since the universe has chosen to take us dancing every night since, fully able to enjoy the Cali rumba every day for a week.

Today we will be cheering on our Colombian favorites for the 2014 World Cup in Brazil.  To be followed by some evening dancing.  Tomorrow we go to the Pacific coast to camp and enjoy the ocean.  And dance, of course.

(and maybe even study some English grammar!)

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